How to reset a Pod Point charger
The reset is at your fuse board, not on the charger.
- Unplug the charging cable from the car, and from the charger too if yours is the socketed type rather than tethered.
- Find the RCBO that feeds the charger. It usually sits in a white box near your distribution board or meter, with a green or yellow “EV Charger” sticker.
- Switch it off. An RCBO works the opposite way to a light switch, so up is on and down is off.
- Leave it off for a moment, then switch it back on and let the charger come up before you plug in again.
Older boards and newer boards use different switch types. On pre-2019 devices the blue switch down is off, and on post-2019 devices the blue and white switch down is off. The direction is the same either way.
There is no reset button on a Pod Point
Worth stating plainly, because people go looking for one and take covers off trying to find it. No Solo has a reset button, a pinhole, or a reset option in the app. The breaker is the reset.
Do not open the unit looking for one. On anything still inside its warranty, opening it is the fastest way to lose the cover you are entitled to.
Resetting a Solo, Solo 3 and Solo 3S
The method is the same across the range, which is unusual and helpful. Where the models differ is what happens afterwards.
| Model | After the reset |
|---|---|
| Solo (2017 or earlier) | Comes back with no app connection. These units cannot pair with the Pod Point app at all, so there is nothing to check on your phone |
| Solo (2018 onwards) | Reconnects to wifi on its own. A label on the underside ending “-2” means it is app compatible |
| Solo 3 | Reconnects and reports in the app. Give it a couple of minutes before deciding the reset failed |
| Solo 3S | Same, and worth checking Off mode has not been left on, which shows yellow and looks like a fault |
Where the RCBO is when you cannot find it
This stops more people than the reset itself. The RCBO is not always in the main consumer unit.
On most installs it is in a small separate enclosure next to the board, or next to the meter, which is why the sticker matters. If your meter is in an outside cupboard, that is where to look. On flats it is often in a riser or a landlord cupboard rather than inside the property at all, which is a problem worth knowing about before you need it at ten at night.
If you cannot find any breaker with an EV label, and nothing in the main board is marked, that in itself is worth raising. It usually means the install paperwork never reached you.
When a reset will not fix it
Reset once. If the charger comes back and stays back, good. If it trips again straight away, stop there.
A charger that needs resetting every few days is not being fixed, it is being restarted, and the reset is hiding whatever is actually wrong. On the units we attend that is usually one of four things. A supply problem, a fault on the circuit, a car or cable putting a small DC leak through the protection, or an energy clamp that has been moved or refitted wrongly at the meter.
There is also a cost to repeated resetting that nobody mentions. Every breaker is rated for a set number of operations, and each trip under load wears the contacts a little. A device that has tripped many times and been switched straight back on eventually fails on its own. Then it will not hold in, or it trips at nothing, or it holds but drops voltage under load so the charger behaves as though the supply is bad.
When we attend, we test for voltage on both sides of the breaker before touching the charger, because that single test says whether the protective device itself has gone. Replacing a worn breaker is quick and inexpensive, and we carry spares. The part we do not skip is finding what it was tripping at in the first place, because a new breaker fitted to an unfixed fault goes the same way as the old one.
